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Per the BLM: The United States
Congress designated the Steens Mountain Wilderness in 2000 and it now has over 170,200 acres. All of
this wilderness is located in Oregon and is managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Steens Mountain is
located in Oregon's high desert and is one of the crown jewels of the state's wildlands. It is some of
the wildest and most remote land left in Oregon.
Opportunities for recreation on Steens Mountain are as plentiful as they are widespread. Popular
activities include camping, picnicking, sightseeing, and exploring the open country on foot and
horseback. Hiking is available in all areas and trailheads exist near Page Springs and South Steens
Campgrounds, as well as Wildhorse Overlook and Pike Creek. Visitors photograph landscapes, wildlife and
wildflowers, and catch redband trout in the Donner und Blitzen River. Others enjoy hunting for wild game
and visiting special places, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing.
We have hiked, camped, and biked in and around the Steens Mountain Wilderness. We have passed through on our
way to other adventures. If you haven’t been to the Steens Mountains, then you really need to go. You
can camp, stay in a hotel, or plan a trip that drives through the area. You won’t regret it.
I have never needed a 4x4 rig when visiting Steens, but it came in handy a few times when traveling
some of the gravel roads in and around the area.
Rattlesnakes are common in the Steens, especially in the areas at the base of the mountain. We have been
visited by them while camping at Page Springs
Campground and also when taking the trail that starts at Page Springs. Watch your step.
Here is a writeup of the 2016 trip Marg and I took that started in the Steens Area and went to Owyhee.
Trails & Adventures
Biking
May 2015: My first adventure to Steens Mountain was on a
biking trip with son Gary and his friend Pete. Our
objective was to ride, counterclockwise, starting at Frenchglen, over Steens Mountain, to Fields, Mann Lake,
Crystal Crane Hot Springs and then back to Frenchglen. About 260 miles in five days. This ride is one of the
top rated bikepacking rides in Oregon. So, for my first bikepacking (not touring) ride with my new Surly
Long Haul Trucker, I figured this would be the one to do.
Here is the complete writeup of the
trip. Spoiler alert: we made it, but couldn’t go over the mountain because of snow, although
we really
tried.
Hikes
Scenic Drives
- Drive the bicycle trail. You can use the maps in Biking Steens Mountain Loop and
follow the same maps in a car.
- Steens Mountain
Backcountry Byway
Per America’s Scenic Byways:
Traverse the scenic Steens Mountain Back Country Byway to view dramatic scenery of glaciated canyons
amidst
the high desert region of southeastern Oregon. The most famous and oft-photographed view is of Kiger
Gorge,
which can be easily seen from the top of the mountain.
A direct contrast to the arid desert below, the upper slopes of Steens Mountain are covered with
lush meadows. Bighorn sheep, antelope and mule can still be seen grazing in the area as they did a
century
ago. Golden eagles soar above, and along the South Steens the thunder of horse hooves can be heard.
End the loop in Frenchglen and walk around the town, buying a souvenir or snapping a picture of
the famous Frenchglen Hotel. The Steens Mountain Back Country Byway shows what can be found in the
desert
landscape of Oregon.
Note: Every time we have been there, the loop has been closed due to snow. You might have
to
do an out and back from Frenchglen, but you can still make it to the summit and also hike Wildhorse Lake and
see Kiger Gorge.
Camping & Hotels
- Page Springs Campground
- Fish Lake Campground
- Jackman Park Campground
- South Steens Campground
- Mann Lake
Campground
- Ten Cent Lake – Hidden Bike-only Campground:
This was not an official campground, but we were able to ride our bikes over the dry lake bed and find a
nice place to camp nestled up against the mountain.
- Crystal Crane Hot Springs Campground
- Fields Station Hotel: During the bike trip with Gary and
Pete, we rode from Fish Lake Campground to Fields just in time to get burgers and milkshakes. A huge
thunderstorm came along, and we didn’t want to ride anymore and get soaked. The Field Station
Owner offered the partly constructed rooms beside the usual rented rooms. We took it. “Just watch
out for the mice.” While we didn’t see anything mouse-like during the night, I know those
thumps, jumps and crashes couldn’t be made by mice unless mice in Fields are the size of possums.
If so, I would hate to see one of their rats. Still, beggars couldn’t be choosers and we settled
in for a good night’s sleep. After a couple of hours, those “mice” settled right down,
and all was quiet. We slept dry and well.
Per Visit Eastern Oregon:
Located just south of Steens Mountain, in the rural town of Fields the Fields Cafe, Motel, and
Convenience Store offers many amenities. The Fields Motel has three rooms. Each room has two
queen-size
beds. The motel also includes a three bedroom house. The house has four queen beds and a half
kitchen.
The kitchen includes a microwave and refrigerator. Reservations are a must.
While in Fields, you can enjoy one of the famous, ultra-thick milkshakes in the cafe.
The
cafe also offers delicious hamburgers and French fries. Gas, diesel and propane are always available
during store hours. There is also a liquor store and a post office. Hunting and fishing licenses can
be
purchased at Fields as well.
- Frenchglen Hotel:
Frenchglen Hotel is a small slice of peace and quiet in southeastern Oregon at the gateway to the
mighty Steens Mountain. You don't need to drive to the Sierra Nevada or Montana to get that glorious
wide-open sky feeling. Come and enjoy the history and unique beauty of this timeless piece of Oregon
history.
Much like stagecoach travelers of the early 20th Century, you can stay in one of the hotel's
rustic rooms. The dining room and lobby are great places to meet and get to know your fellow
travelers.
And like the olden days, the restrooms are down the hall. Drover’s Inn, on the same
historic
property, includes 4 additional rooms to rent with private bathrooms.
- Multiple BLM Primitive Campgrounds
Two Towns
To me, both Frenchglen and Fields are sweet little oases. Both are quiet and laid back. From burgers and
wonderful (the best in the world?) milkshakes at Fields Station to the serenity of the wildlife refuge just
across the road from Frenchglen. I have not stayed at the Frenchglen Hotel, but would like to. I suppose it
is one of those things that I just can’t put a finger on (or a word to), but when I think of these two
towns, I get a wonderful feeling of peaceful melancholy.
- Frenchglen: Per Visit Eastern Oregon: No visit to
Southeastern Oregon is complete without a trip along the edge of the Steens Mountain to the town of
Frenchglen. What it might lack in population, Frenchglen makes up for in stunning scenery, wildlife
and history. Spend the night at the Frenchglen Hotel, just steps from the Malheur National Wildlife
Refuge, and retrace the steps of stagecoach travelers from a century ago.
- Fields: Per Visit Eastern Oregon: Fields is a great little
town. It's got that off-the-beaten track, locals-only, undiscovered territory kind of charm.
Resources
- The Oregon Natural Desert
Association – Visitor’s Guide to Steens Mountain Region gives a lot of good
information in terms of where to eat, stay, camp, visit, hike, etc.
- Oregon Natural Desert
Association
- Only in Your State: Steens
Mountain Back Country Byway
- Only in Your State: Oregon
- Bureau
of Land Management (BLM)
- Visit Eastern Oregon
- Oregon State Parks
- Alltrails:
Steens Mountain Wilderness
- Oregon Encyclopedia: Steens
Mountain
- Oregon Blue Book: Burns
Paiute Tribe
- Visit Oregon - Steens Mountain:
Oregon’s Mysterious Secret
- Alvord
Desert wilderness Study Area
